routes. Starting out from
Fethiye-Hisaronu,
it rises hundreds of meters from the coves of the Mediterranean, welcoming
visitors to the mysterious cities of ancient Lycia and culminating in the
village of Hisarçan 25 km from Antalya.
The Lycian homeland or ‘Land of Light’ is the area between Antalya and
Köycegiz on the Teke peninsula. The Lycians, who called themselves the
‘Trmmili’ (Termilae), were known for their love of freedom and war-like
traditions. Founding countless cities reminiscent of eagle’s eyries in this
harsh terrain and scorching climate, they possessed an original culture with
rock tombs and sarcophagi worked in the local limestone, and the Lycian
League, whose capital was at Patara, was a forerunner of many modern-day
systems of statehood with its concept of autonomous rule. The Lycians, who
made their living as sailors, pirates and mercenaries, had a matriarchal
society. But come now, let us set out on an extensive but pleasant tour
through the ‘Land of Light’.
STARTING OUT FROM HISARONU
The Lycian Way begins at the resort village of Hisaronu-Montana. As
the ancient migration route rises from the foothills of
Mt Babadag, colorful
hang gliders in a rainbow of colors are heading for the white sands of the
Oludeniz. Following the red and white signs, I arrive at the brink of a
precipice at Faralya. Below me lie the Kelebekler Vadisi or 'Valley of the
Butterflies', where freedom and infinity stretch hand in hand, and Kabak
Cove whose turquoise waters turn to azure in the depths. The four-hour climb
to Alinca is one of the trail's most difficult segments. Then come the
Yediburunlar or 'Seven Headlands' with their endless curves, unexpected
patches of fog and swaths of emerald green sweeping down the hills to the
heart of the sea. And, after the ancient cities of Sidyma and Pydnai, the
endless beach at Patara, where the Ozlen Cayi empties into the Mediterranean...
I am now on another waterway, the Delikkemer, an ancient aqueduct built
centuries ago of colossal interlocking rocks,
each with a hole in the
center to bring water to Patara. As the blue of the sea
swallows up the sun's last red rays, Patara drifts
off to sleep and the Caretta caretta lumber along the beach to lay their
eggs in the hot sand.It's morning and I'm climbing from the seashore to the cool, refreshing
highlands. Fruit trees, flocks of goats and triangular-shaped grain silos
reminiscent of Lycian tombs accompany me along the way. Descending from
Gediktepe to Antiphellos (Kas), I send greetings to the neighboring island
of Meis which lies opposite. The Lycian Way now proceeds parallel to the
coast, passing one by one through the ancient cities. Apollania, Aperlai,
Teimussa, Simena... Cyprus acacias with their yellow blossoms, euphorbia,
fire-red poppies, anemone... Boats on 'blue cruises' bob gently up and down
over the ancient sunken city of Kekova. Soon I reach Father Christmas's home
of Demre and the ancient city of Myra, noted for its unusual Lycian tombs.
ON TO TAHTALI FOR THE HARDY
The ancient way rises sharply from sea level to Eren and Alaca at
an altitude of 1900 m. With three days' provisions in my backpack, I tread among the noble cedars
on the windswept highlands, passing through Papazkayasi where a hermit monk
lives, and the ruins of Alakilise and Belos that loom in the wilderness. I
know that I am approaching Finike when the fragrance of orange blossoms
reaches my nostrils. Wooden houses perched over the water on stilts greet me
at Mavikent. At evening I am at the lighthouse. As it sends out its beam to
unknown sailors, I think of my girlfriend back home. Exhausted, I slog on
through Adrasan Cove, Musa Dagi, the city of Olimpos, and Cirali, perhaps
the world's loveliest beach. Although the lights of the bed&breakfasts have
gone out, the unquenchable flame of the sacred Chimera has illumined Cirali
beach for millennia. The Lycian Way offers travelers two alternatives at
this point. Those who choose the coast will pass through pristine villages
each more
beautiful than the last, and Phaselis, a former pirates' lair, to
arrive at Kesmebogaz Valley.The icy streams fed by the melting snows can
revive weary bodies in an instant. The other alternative requires strength and fitness. The goal is the summit
of Mt Tahtali, at 2366 meters the highest point on the trail. I leave the
waves pounding the shore behind and set out for Tahtali, which in winter
requires some ice climbing. From the summit of the mountain a vast panorama
lies spread out before me. Its sister peak, Kizlarsivrisi (3070 m), the Bay
of Antalya in all its splendor, and the Bolkar and Dedegol mountains in the
distance complete the scene. Coming together again at Gedelme, the ancient
road leaves the Goynuk highlands behind and enters a narrow canyon. Then,
returning to sea level, it allows travelers a breathing space before heading
once again into the rugged hills. When I reach the base of the Saricinar
transmitter (1900 m), it's only another 5 km to Hisarcandir, the end of the
road.
FOUR SEASONS IN A SINGLE DAY
The trekking season is long here where the winter months are quite
temperate due to the prevailing Mediterranean climate.
But the best time for hiking is early spring when you can see at once the
snow-capped mountains and the wild flowers that carpet
the earth. Nor should
it be forgotten that the four seasons can be experienced in a single day on
the mountain peaks. Since hiking
the entire trail in one go takes some 35-40
days, it’s best to divide it up into steps. For details, you can consult Kate
Clow’s guidebook, published in English, whose detailed map is a boon for
trekking buffs. Anybody who wants to can walk the trail by simply following
the red and white lines. A red ‘x’ means you deviated from the trail, and
twice-repeated red and white signs are a reminder that you have come to a fork
in the road. Placed at approximately every 50 meters, the signs are renewed at
regular intervals by volunteers. The signs nonetheless may sometimes go
missing due to natural conditions, occasional vandalism, and the opening up of
new forest roads. In this case, returning to the last sign and calmly reconnoitering the area again will ensure that you find the right way You too should experience this matchless adventure in time and space, to
savor solitude, serenity and nature as well as the thyme-gathering mountain
nomads, the tart taste of carob the mysteries of the Lycian homeland, the
summit of Tahtali and the Mediterranean’s endless blue.
